History of Saree Saree
Sari, often spelled as ‘Saree’, is a nine-yard magical wonder that complements the surreal beauty of men and women in the Indian sub-continent. Saree is not only an exceptional garment but also an emotion. Saada Kalo is a home for unique and rare collection of sarees where tradition mingles with new-age fusion.
We bring you the glorious journey of saree that began around 5th millennium BC in the Indian subcontinent. The name ‘Saree or Sari’ evolved from a typical word ‘Sattika’ meaning women’s attire. You can find the term in the early Buddhist and Jain scripts. Also, Rig Veda contains the first mention of Sarees dating back to 3000 B.C.
Earlier, Sattika symbolized a three piece ensemble embacing ‘Stanapatta’ indicating a chest band, ‘Antriya’ indicating a lower garment, and ‘Uttariya’ indicating a veil worn over the head and shoulder. People used to call the entire set as ‘Poshak’.
The evolution of Saree has been through striking alterations and modifications. The resemblance of Antriya used to match today’s Dhoti or fishtail style. Further, it advanced into Bhairnivasani Skirt resembling lehenga or ghargra. Again, Stanapatta finely evolved into Choli, and Uttariya into Dupatta.
Since the threshold, women used to drape traditional handloom sarees fabricated of cotton, silk, embroidery, block-print, tie-dye, and ikkat textiles. Besides, Kanchipuram, Banarasi, Mysore, Gadwal, Maheshwari, Bagalpuri, Eri, Narayan Pet, Chanderi, Uppada, Mekhela, Baluchari, Ghicha, etc. won women’s heart.
Moreover, the spiritual significance of sarees can be tied to Indian Goddesses or Devis. The distinct colors are symbolic like red refers to courage, yellow means auspicious, white stands for purity, and so on. Again, With the arrival of foreigners in India, women from wealthy backgrounds started the culture of adding expensive stones, and gold and silver threads to give Saree an exclusive ornamentation that can shout their upper strata in the society.The drape is equally popular in other South Asian countries like Nepal, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. It is apt for blazingly hot and humid climate.
Saada Kalo believes that a saree delimits the refined grace, elegance, and honor every woman fortunate of the incredible drape. Infact, Sarees are the emblem of national pride and our country’s rich tradition and unparalleled craftsmanship. Many garments came and gone but Saree remains unbiased at the top with more finesse with the passing time. Shoppers can feel overwhelmed browsing our unlimited breathtaking iconic collection. Shop your next saree from us and celebrate it for the lifetime.
Background of Saree
Every state in India has proved their fine craftmanship involving typical patterns, specialized fabric, and distinct techniques. Saada Kalo has brought the state-wise saree arts for you.
| Name of the Saree | State | Weaving Stories | Prime Features | Patterns |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ashavali | Gujarat | Dark line like Inlay Work, and, Brocade Work | Colored Silk, Gold Zari, and, Lightness | Flowers, Birds, Animals |
| Baluchari | West Bengal | Mythological epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata on the Pallu | Square blocks on borders | Thread embroidered motifs |
| Swarnachari | West Bengal | Similar to Baluchari | Zari | Similar to Baluchari |
| Banarasi (Cutwork, Butidar, Vaskat, Tanchoi, and Jangla) | Uttar Pradesh | Silk, Georgette, and Organza Sarees Mainly for Brides, Heavily Engraved Designs Bel Jhallar Designs inspired by Mughals | Brocade Work, Gold and Silver Zari Work, Rich Colors and Textures. | Figures with tiny details, Leaves, Gold Weavings, Floral Motis, Metallic Visuals |
| Bandhani or Bandhej | Rajasthan Gujarat | Tie and dye technique (tied in knots followed by color fillings) Fabrics are Crepe, Chiffon, Silk, Cotton, Georgette, and Cotton-Silk blend | Dotted prints Cost depends on the number of dots and complicated designs | Geometric forms, Flowers, Animals and Birds |
| Batik | West Bengal | Dyeing a cloth (cotton and silk) by covering certain parts of it with wax coating | Waxed areas hold the original hues of the cloth | Contrast of dyed and undyed patterns |
| Bomkai | Orissa | Fabrics are silk and cotton Jala Technique | Borders are in contrasting hues. Pallus have intricated thread works | Complex patterns and Motifs inspired by Nature and Tribal Arts Tortoise, Lotus, Fish, Birds, Black and White Background, etc. |
| Chanderi | Madhya Pradesh | Pure silk and Fine Cotton with engraved Zari work | Lightest Saree Glossy transparency Texture is very thin and transparent | Patterns are inspired from trees, flowers, birds like peacocks and swans, heavenly bodies, fruits, geometric shapes, animals, and gold coins |
| Chikankari | Uttar Pradesh | Origin is a white muslin cloth. Now, various fabrics and colors are used. | Different types of threads and stitches are used for creating fine embroidery Soft colors, Light texture | Sequins are used for creating motifs. |
| Dharamavaram | Andhra Pradesh | Weaving of two different colors for contrasting dual shaded effect It has a striking similarity with Kanjeevaram. | Broad borders with solid hues Contrasting heavy Pallus | Pallus contain detailed Golden Zari Brocade patterns and Butta designs |
| Eri Silk (also known as Ahimsa or Peace Silk | Assam | Tamed silk cultivated without killing any silkworm (Samia Cynthia Ricini). Purest and finest silk with diffused sheen in India | Coarse, dense, and fine fabric texture Super elastic and durable Blends finely with cotton and wool Heavier and darker | Small Zari Border Thread Works Peacock motifs Etc. |
| Guntur | Andhra Pradesh | Ikat style of weaving like golden stripes and checks | Compact weave structure Tightly mend drapes Soft but sturdy | Borders with fine thread work, Single patterns, Single hues, Tribal motifs Pallus have flower motifs, butis, stripes, etc. |
| Garad or Gorod (meaning pure undyed white or silk) | West Bengal | Silk fibers are woven immensely close Fine and papery texture Heavy look Golden and silver threads are used | Red and maroon borders Small Paisley motifs White or off-white background | |
| Ilkal | Karnataka | Lengthwise threads weaving (body wraps) in cotton Pallu has border area in pure silk or art silk TopaTeni technique | Pallu has length wise color bands Types of borders are Gomi, Jari, Gaadi, and Paraspet | Main body wraps contain rectangular, squares, stripes, and check patterns Motifs are inspired by temples including lotus, conch shell, gopura, animals, chariot, temple tank, etc. Pallus have shapes like comb, mountains, fort ramparts, and jowars |
| Jamdani Dhakai (finest muslins weaving) | West Bengal | Feather light Translucent texture fabric Motifs appear like floating on the ultra-fine fabric Hand Woven technique with golden threads | Motifs are inspired from nature, Galaxy, Animals, Plants, Geometrical shapes, etc. | |
| Kalamkari (Artistic creation or Kari using pen or Kalam) | Andhra Pradesh | Artisans draw motifs using tamarind twigs Natural vegetable dyes are used for painting | Typical colors like Deep Bluish Black, Deep Olive, Deep Maroon, Rustic Red, Indigo, etc. are used | Motifs are inspired by Hindu Mythology, Ancient Caves and Sculptures, Flowers, Figures, and Tendrils |
| Kanjeevaram | Tamil Nadu | Weaving involves Mulbary Silk Threads | Glossy sheen Royal texture | Motifs are of Moon, Parrots, Mangoes, Jasmine, Peacocks, Coins, Lions, Leaves, Swans, Chariots, etc. |
| Kasavu (meaning Golden Brocade) | Kerala | 100% unbleached cotton is used | Glossy and thick gold border | Birds and flower patterns |
| Kota | Rajasthan | Traditional Pit Loom is used for weaving. Silk and Cotton Yarn re used. | Sheen transparent Strong fabric Rice and onion juice are smeared on the yarn to make it heavy and durable. | Geometric embroidery Border patches Check and square patterns Thematic motifs Zari embellishment |
| Lehariya | Rajasthan | Fabric is tied during the dyeing process. The opposite ends of the cloth (lengthwise) are pulled and rolled together before tying and dying in different colors Concentric Rings and Fan Folding techniques combined with darker dyes | Multi Colored Kaleidoscopic Design Contrasting Borders Light texture Soft Dual Tone | Diagonal multi-colored lines |
| Mangalgiri | Andhra Pradesh | Handwoven sarees use 80s cotton (combed yarn) woven closely Outstanding color combos | Multi colored effect Shimmery Use of Colored threads in the warp and weft while weaving | Detailed Tribal designs woven in cotton Zari work Checks, and Golden colored strip on the Pallu |
| Narayanpet | Telangana | Chatrapati Shivaji loved Narayanpet Maratha and Telangana fusion style Cotton-silk fusion Pure silk | Represents 80’s style Warp and Weft of Handloom Fabric with Combed Cotton Vat color dye | Embroidered checked surface pattern with the border Detailed ethnic line patterns Zari designs |
| Paithani | Maharashtra | Fine silk | Vibrant colors Slanting square border | Motifs include Flowers, Trees, Peacocks, Lotus, Swan, Narali Print, Parrots Zari thread work Pallu has Nature patterns |
| Patola | Gujarat | Double Ikat Weave Tie Dye method and Warp and Weft in silk fabrics Takes 5 to 6 months for completion | Identical Sides Hand Dyed in Natural Dyes Pure Silk | Motifs include Flowers, Zigzag, Geometric patterns, Elephants, Parrots, etc. |
| Sambalpuri | Orissa | Different weaving techniques Threads are dyed followed by Weaving into a Fabric | Tussar Silk Soft Cotton | Traditional motifs include Wheels, Fish, Temple, Flowers, Shells, Daily life of Coastal Village People, etc. |
| Tant | West Bengal | Woven from Cotton Threads | Transparent Light Crisp Startched Rich and Thick Borders Decorated Pallu Short Fiber giving Crepe-like appearance | Variety of Prints and Motifs like Checkered Patterns, Elephants, Bumble-Bee, Fish Scale, Blue Sky, Half Moon, etc. |
| Uppada | Andhra Pradesh | Jamdani method Handwoven from Cotton Fabric | Light Weight Soft and Smooth Vibrant Colors | Patterns include Flowers, Geometric shapes, etc. Detailed work on Pallu Gold, Silver, and Zari thread work |
| Venkatgiri | Andhra Pradesh | Jamdani Method of Weaving Silk or Cotton Fabric In 1700s Nellore’s Royal Family used to wear Venkatgiri | Big Jamdani Motif Durable Light Soft | Motifs are of Swan, Parrot, Peacock, Leaf, etc. mainly in the Pallu |
Global Popularity of Saree Saree
Saree, since ages, is winning people’s heart and the love for saree has spread worldwide. Designers and artisans are mixing and matching traditional with contemporary ideas. The beauty and elegance of Saree has travelled beyond boundaries with the support of Indians who travelled to other countries and mesmerized their citizens. Furthermore, air hostesses and fashion shows added feathers to the crown of popularizing the unstitched drape globally. Bollywood celebrities like Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and Deepika Padukone started wearing saree in international events and represented cultural heritage of India. Foreign celebrities like Pamela Anderson, Ashley Judd, Selena Gomez, etc. gracefully dressed in lovely sarees in international events and won millions of hearts.
In 1970s, saree made a huge impact in the U.S. India women from New York along with American housewives and business women used to wear sarees. The comfort, grace, and ability to fully cover the body attracted the women more. The 9-yard miracle has lately become politicized in the United States with the flow of digital movement embracing the slogan ‘Sari Not Sorry’ led by UC riverside’s gender studies professor named Tanya Rawal, India. This anti-xenophobia fashion-campaign has reached heights on Instagram.
New Trends of Saree Saree
Bengalis or ‘Bongs’ are known for their unique fashion sense. Since centuries, Bengalis are popular for their elegant style and superfluous talent. Fusion is the new fad for Bongs. Simultaneously, the traditional aura of Saree is everyone’s dear even now, because nothing can replace its heavenly beauty and sophistication. Till date, Bongs can be seen draping beautiful printed sarees. Besides, since 1980s, the vogue of hand block print and tie and dye sarees has been in the forefront. That doesn’t mean Benarasi and Jamdani have lost their competence. Many new-age Bengali brides can’t think of anything other than a bright red or maroon Benarasi. Still, Bongs swear by the classic pleated style. And, nothing can beat the authentic white saree with red border complemented with gold jewelry. However, Today’s Bongs love to mix and match, be it in regards of colors, patterns, fabrics, or draping style. Many are shifting towards a plethora of extraordinary designer blouses. The rest of the Indians are gladly and proudly following the new Bong saree trend. World famous designers, television and fashion shows, and celebrities are good examples. Browse the exclusive saree collection of Saada Kalo and be the ultimate Bong Diva.